FMS505.K_Chidlow.goodbyetoberline: November 2014

Sunday, 30 November 2014

Makeup development.

“He is a bizarre figure, much lipstick, much rouge”(Act one, scene one)

After doing much research into my inspirations and reasoning behind it I began to create designs along the way. All of my deigns are inspired by the 30's. club culture, and the gangster culture of the 21st century.

Dark, powerful.mysterious.

I want my character to look androgynous, powerful and glamorous
.

I have experimented with the chola look as a contemporary twist as they are female gangsters and look androgynous.. As well as using golds to communicate power, and wealth. She is self obsessed she is her own gold. The color black to communicate mystery , and her dark side. I tried to make a statement by using a teardrop tattoo communicating she may of been in prison.

Here I really do not like this look I feel it does not communicate who my character is.

Here I have played with the much lipstick but not the expected colour more black. Exaggerated brows, Shiny skin and brows. I have filled the tear with glitter, as I feel this looks more club culture inspired.

Here I tried to experiment with how the emcee was described to look in the script. "much rouge and lipstick". But with a contemporary twist. Using strong brows. Again the tear symbolism to show that my character is powerful and corrupt.

Here I wanted to play with the eye patch idea like Peter Gatien, but with a more fabulous twist. "I mean if you have a hunchback throw a little glitter on it, go dancing"(James St James Party monster). I still wanted a lot of blusher and lipstick. This was extremely popular in the 80' s and not seen as stage makeup. I wanted to experiment with glitter yet still get my concept across. So I tried to use glitter as an eye patch. I did not like this look I felt it took away the sort of gangster, strong yet glamorous look I wanted my character to portray.

Product list:
Illamasqua Satin base primer.
Lancome teint miracle foundation shade 002.
MAC Shine pot.
Kroylan blusher- flamingo.
Ilaamsaqua-disobey.
Kroylan Blueberry & pearl eye shadow.
Kroylan grease paint dark brown.
Lips- Film noir MAC.
Mascara MAC Zoom lash Black.
Kryolan event foundation pearl.

I have decided after trialling many looks. I feel as if this look portrays my character the most. Its pretty, yet strong. I have used a lot of blusher and lipstick, but black lipstick. As I feel this helps show her dark personality.I have used metallic palette as I feel they are more contemporary and stage like. I feel the makeup and hair compliments eachother. I have used exaggerated brows like the 30s brows were over exaggerated in shape and thinness. Where as my brows are exaggerated in thickness and shape. I feel this makeup looks a bit like stage makeup but in a modern take. With the dewy skin and glamourous but exaggerated. I have chosen to use grillz as communicates being gangster and having power and wealth in our society.

.For this assessment I decided I wanted to incorporate eyelashes into my design somehow. Something that would add to the look. As I felt it was not strong enough with just the grillz and makeup. I wanted to incorporate the eye patch idea. I have eye lashes I have wanted to use for ages! I felt it helped give my look that finishing touch. It would also be a waste to do so much research on eye patches and not use something that exaggerates the eye.She sees all!

Firstly cleanse and moisturise the models face.
Clips the hair out of the face using sectioning clips.
Apply the primer over the face using your fingertips.
I then used my duo fibre brush to buff the foundation into the skin. Then apply concealer under the eyes on any blemishes or redness with a sponge.
I applied the vent foundation over the eye lid as a primer.
I then used the dark blueberry shadow over half of the lid. The pearl colour under the brow bone and in the inner corners of the eyes. I then blender the colours using a fluffy blending brush.
Using a dispoable mascara wand I then applied masacara to both eyes.
I then Used a MAC brow pencil to fill in the brows andto create the new brow shape.
I then applied the cream blusher in the hollows of the cheeks to the temple in a c shape.
I then applied the MAC shine mixing mediumabove the cheekbones to get the shine.
I then applied MAC Film noir lips tick to the lips.
Lastly I applied the feather lashes using duo glue and tweezers. I will apply these last as I feel they may be uncomfortable on the face.

Thursday, 27 November 2014

Hair development.

Looking at the 30's a popular hair style was the kiss/spit curls to men just to make them feel masculine. They are strands of hair that are manipulated into a curl that laid flat on the head. Considering I want to make my character anonymous I felt this would the perfect hair style as it's androgynous.

Site:www.piniterest.com
viewed:26/11/2014

We can see how the hair style can transform into a modern hairstyle. Pat Mcgrath used kiss curls in a Galliano show infact this is one of my all time favorite Mcgrath looks, I find it inspiring.

Site:www.piniterest.com
viewed:26/11/2014

The shape remind me of curled stems, and feathers.

Site:www.piniterest.com
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The texture to some reminds me of black shiny pvc where the hair has been smothered in gel creating an intense shine that some may not want.

This is one of my hair charts which I have developed from my other cabaret designs. I want my model to have dark short hair. As I want the hair to be chic gelled down into a side or center parting like the emcee. But with kiss curls making the hair more feminine.

Here is my first attempt. I must admit it was hard to make them stick to plastic. I do not like these curls as I feel they are too long, I also have not shaped them well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5QiIyM-Yq0

I am much happier with the result of these curls I managed to get smaller curls like I would like. I found it easier to wrap the hair around my little finger to get the smaller curls I am still not 100% pleased with the curls this is something I must get right.

Here I tried on my own hair. I found myself asking the question, why didn't I do this in the first place? It is so much easier to control the hair and to make it stick. I am much happier with the curls this time !

For the back of the hair my models hair is short therefore will be combed to perfection with gel to have that shine. I want the kiss curls to be messy and stuck to the face not necessarily all curled to show my interpretation of the curls today. My emcee does not have time to faff about with perfect hair as long as she looks presentable. Everyone knows she is powerful from her "million dollar smile".

Equipment:
Tail comb.
Hair pins.
Sectioning pins.
Gel
Hair spray.
Mousse.

Firstly I am going to create a clean side parting using a tail comb.
I am then going to section the front of the hair I want to turn into kiss curls using sectioning clips.
I am then using mousse am going to comb the hair downwards from the root to tip to create a shiny chic look.
I am then going to go to the front section of the hair. I am going to wrap the small tufts of hair round my little finger to create small kiss curls. Using gel to smooth down the hair. To also create that slimy texture.
Once I am happy with all of the kiss curls making sure they are slghtly messy. I will then lightly spray hair spray over my models hair.

My Emcee.

this is my mood board for my contemporary character . My influences are mainly cool colours. That I would associate with my character. I have chosen some images as even the posses of the models have influenced me they communicate arrogance and power.

ACT ONE: SCENE ONE. My version

The Kit Kat club. The brick walls suffocating in moss. The paint peeling off the rotting door as if it wanted to abandon the club more so than its owner. The doors open. I hear the repetitive beat, I see two girls silhouettes on the door way and hear childish sniggering. Sweet, perfume lingers in the air. I take one step in. out of curiosity of course. The unnerving door men escort you in. As you walk in you'll find two attractive women with big, dark voluminous locks, standing in lingre tickling the hungry public with big pink, fluffy feathers, giggling in a childish manner. They served every customer a punch in a wine glass, to dub down the tackiness. I take a sip. My face screws up into a paper ball. I cannot quite make out what it is.

After being compressed down the narrow misleading hallway I come to a holt. There is a velvet red curtain. You pull back the curtain to stepping into a parallel universe. The room is filled with dark, metallic yet slightly warming colours. The walls are paved with gold. The seats are spacious and velvet. The touch of the red velvet seats, softer than a woman’s bare bosom. Your body sinks into the seat. Laughter fills the air. You belong here.

The lights dim. The room is filled with silence. In front of me there is a bare, dark stage. With black marble floor. Tap as sharp as a whip. The tap beat continues, until a tall skeletal figure appears on stage. The spotlight beams on this androgynous figure. Dark 10 inch panted heels are worn. My eyes follow her never ending bony pale legs. My eyes gaze up she is wearing a dark body suit and a leather jacket. Once I get past her prominent collar bones. I get to the most intriguing part. At first I could not make out whether it was a slender man in drag. My eyes are fixated on her face,

Her face was surprisingly attractive Her skin fair shiny skin almost like wax. The light seemed to reflect off her cheekbones. Much blusher is worn around the temples and cheeks. Her eyes are a dark, Smokey grey. Then I gaze down at her glossy deep lips. A husky voice fills the room, it is not her surprisingly pleasant voice and face that has caught everyone’s attention. But perhaps there is now a disco ball catching the light in the room. Disco ball in her mouth.

Her hair short glossy parted to the right. Pieces of hair scattered on the outter of her face. Hair that looks like it has curled up to die. It is said she has a curl for each person she has killed. But that could just be nonsense. My body begins to fill up with fuzzy and warm sensations. My mind burns. My palms begin to sweat, my breathing loses rhythm. The person next to me whispers “call down darling, it’s only ecstasy”.

She introduces the first act "It's cold outside, it's hot in here and so are the girls, All of them virgins" (Laughs) "If you do not believe me, put your money where your mouth is and found out for yourself".

The beat begins. Glitter is thrown on and stage and into the audience. As the girls dance onto the stage you can see fear in their eyes as they cross paths with their host who bares her grillz at them like a cat threatening its prey. The mysterious figure disappears into the night.

Who is she?

My character is 30 years of age. She is a successful owner of The Kit Kat club. She is described as being power obsessed. She loves money and power. She takes the girls in under her wing and helps them get by, by performing in her club. She also allows them to prostitute themselves out in the rooms that the spiral staircase lead to. She had a kind heart to begin with but then got greedy and decided she wanted some of their money. Why should they have all of the money when they'd be nothing without me? She has had the same androgynous short sleek hairstyle for years. She has kiss curl for each person who works for her. Her girls are her family.If you mess with them you mess with her. They are her bread earners. She has fair skin, blue smokey eyes, dark lips and wears much blusher. She always wears big fluffy lashes on the left eye.Its her stage makeup and she likes to look attractive. She is known for her mouth of jewels. To show her power and dominance she will often grit her teeth if somebody tries to take advantage of her girls, this communicates her wealth and power. She is known for being a female representation of gangster culture. She keeps a gun in her clutch where ever she goes. She has a husky voice and only ever wears black.

If the club is really struggling for money she will serve ecstasy punch at the door to make sure everyone has an unforgettable time. Her face will change depending on how the audience perceive her. If they are having a bad trip she may look like a monster. If they are having a good trip her face may be colourful or cartoon like.

Wednesday, 26 November 2014

makeup and hair research

Whilst feeling inspired by Peter Gatien I cannot help but be inspired from his memorable eye patch. I know he wore his eye patch due to a hockey accident. However he coul of had a glass eye or other procedures that would make this less obvious. The accident gave him compensation money, frm which he began his buisness ventures. His eye patch shows strength. That he has been through a traumatic experience but has come out stronger. It shows he is not to be messed with. It not only is visually captivating but it also makes him look rather wealthy. Shows his status his power.

site:www.askmen.com
Viewed:26/11/2014

Like pirates are on always scouting for treasure, could his eye patch be connotationing that his club empire is his treasure? He is always looking for ways to make money? Or even addicted to money? Whether it legally or illegally. Pirates is where the eye patch originated from. they wore them to help their eye conditions from going from light to dark.

Eye patches in film & TV.

site:www.tvguide.com

Elle Driver (Daryl Hannah) Kill Bill. The reasoning behind the eye patch was due to disrespecting her martial arts teacher therefore resulted in having her eye plucked out.

Lilly Charles-Pushing Dasies In this film she is seen wearing a vajazzled eye patch due to an accident where she was cleaning her cats litter tray. So this story has a commicalelement to it.

site:www.tvguide.com

Tom Cruise is seen wearing an eye patch due to an injury from World War II. Where not only did he loose his eye but also lost his right hand and two fingers on his left hand. So he lost this due to injury. It also shows he has a past, why was he fighting? Shows his strength to of survived a battle and will survive again?

site:www.tvguide.com

Angelina Jolie in Sky Captain And The World Of Tomorrow. I have been searching online and in articles the reason i unknown. Other tahn it makes her look mysterious and stern and of course makes us question her past, making her a strong character.

site:www.tvguide.com

Even if we can’t know exactly what happened to Rooster’s eye, an educated guess is that it was removed after a Minié ball, shrapnel or some other projectile, hit him either directly in the eye or near it.

Site:www.shadowsandphantoms.blogspot.com

Eyepatches in club & Pop culture.

Site:www.milliontalks.com
viewed:26/11/2014

site:www.ohnotheydidnt.com

Pete first began to wear an eyepatch after he had some surgery on his nose which resulted in bruising around his left eye. It made such a statement he continued wearing it as a fashion statement. It made him differnt.

Site:www.rockafellar.tumblr.com
Viewed:26/11/2014

These images are t show how eye patches were worn in the 80's club culture. Neither of these are blind however David Bowie did have two different eye colours making him look intruiging. The eye patces to me are a statment piece. It automatically draws attention to their revealed and and lips.

Site:www.kosovoalive.com
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www.zetaboards.com
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site:blog.daum.net
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Site:www.streetcimage.com
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Here are some images of 2000's celebrities sporting the one-eyed look. Not only is the look strong and rather intimidating it could also be referencing something that our money-obsessed society seem to be rather obsessed with. The illuminati, sound familiar? Have you noticed that infact all of the celebrities sporting this look are major music artists.Are these images referencing the illuminati? Resulting in power.

URL:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANlPZO12nQw

This is a video I found extremely interesting. When wanting to communicate power I can use this a concept theory.

www.thecoachellavalleyartscene.com
viewed:26/11/2014

site:www.wgsn.com
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site:www.pininteret.com
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site:www.piniterest.com
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Here are a few images that I found inspiring from fashion and editorials shows. Of what I have noticed is in every image the face looks so strong I love it. Its such a strong statement of power. How is this contemparary? Our society is money obsessed we are obsessed with power. It shows importance. This is what I want to develop into a design whether I will use the patch or not I am not sure about I will look at other ways perhaps a more modern way to get across todays ideologies.

Here is a awful sketch I did of a neutral basic eye with a dark lip and a eye patch. Also a dark red lip.

Gangsters.

When thinking of the emcee in a historical context he would of not been seen as a gangster or pimp. But going back and scrutinising what he does he is in my eyes. The historical gangster or pimp would of been well dressed and groomed.

In fact gangsters of the time were unsupsected. They were well liked by people and were extremely charming, and of course intelligent. This was of course a front, behind closed doors there was extreme violence and meaningful threats. If the money was not being made there was hell to pay for. John Dillinger was the perfect gangster of the time until he was caught. He successfully robbed banks, and committed rumored murder.(Girardin, G. Russell and William J. Helmer. Dillinger: The Untold Story (Expanded Edition). Indiana University Press. Indiana: Indiana University Press, 2009.)

Site:http://makinghistoryatmacquarie.files.wordpress.com/
viewed:26/11/2014

Do you see the links I am making? The body language the smug, yet friendly, yet stern look on the face the arrogant hand gesture. The well groomed look everything screams gangster to me.

Gangster/pimp look in club & pop culture.

In these images I can see clear links to the gangster/pimp sort of look. What defines this look to me? Well historically being well groomed. The top hat adding an emcee element to it. From these images I can see the designer has played around to dumb down the look possibly. I love how all of the poses are very serious and tall. This is an element I can apply to my character.

site:www.piniterest.com
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Site:www.piniterest.com
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site:www.piniterest.com
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www.piniterest.com
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This image is inspired by leigh Bowery of which I thought was almost obvious to see.

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Although the suit and being well groomed was very much a gangster/pimp element to that era. In our era I instantly associate gangsters/pimps with grillz. How I can show my character's characteristics. Something that would like to show my gangster element to my chareter is Grillz.

The history of Grillz.
Grillz supposedly arose from the years of black slavery. Where if the slaves teeth were decaying their matsers would often replace their teeth with gold fillings or teeth. But this was only to their most loyal, strongest salves. Showing they were of value to their master in comparision to other slaves. It showed you were important and not to be messed with. It also helped define their identity against other slaves. they would often bare their teeth to show their superiority.

As you can see now grillz are very much adorned and worn by the most powerful. Whom? the music culture. Mainly used in music videos of the urban genre when mentioning pimping, being a gangster or money.

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Site:www.piniterest.com
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Site:www.piniterest.com
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site:www.piniterest.com

As you can see it is mainly females wearing grillz these days. That had me thinking female empowerment has really developed over these past years. Women are on top of the music sales, fashion. Some women in the industry can be seen as being extremely intimidating and powerful above are just some of the people that do not want to be messed with in their industry field.

Cholas.

Cholas are typically of mexican origin. It is referred to as a style but it is also known for women being in gangs. Murdering others. The typical chola makeup and hair I feel is very 20's inspired.

site:www.pininterest.com
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www.plus.google.com
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They have the 30s features such as the thin drawn on brows, the high eyeshadow.

They are often featured n popular culture.

A popular element as shown in the exaggerated version in Vogue Italia, is the teardrop tattoo. I like this as it shows there is symbolism the look a meaning behind the tattoo.

"Made famous by Johnny Depp's character in the movie Crybaby. It is a tattoo of a teardrop below one's eye on either side. Originally placed in prison to signify that the bearer was owned by a fellow prisoner. In prison terms "there bitch." The tear drop signifies that pain and humiliation one would feel after being "turned out" in prison. The tattoo is placed on the face to further humiliate the victim and mark them in a place where they could not cover the mark.

Confusion about it's meaning has come from the victim's having to explain the tattoo when they get out of prison and have to explain it to family and loved one's. They would often state that they got the tattoo because they killed a man in prison. This statement was not far from the truth since their submissive act of becoming another man's "bitch" could easily be viewed as the death of their manhood."

URL:http://www.urbandictionary.com/

site:www.pussymagazine.co.uk
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site:www.steviemarda.com
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Site:Richardpurnell.wordpress.com
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Kiss curls are also worn by Cholas which is again a major 30s trend. I love how it has been incorporated into a "ghetto" style from a classic look of the 30's era. Cholas are als drognyous. In the way they dress and do their hair like my character.